Understanding Your Hair Type: The Complete Guide from 1A to 4C

Hair typing changed how we talk about hair. But the system most people reference — the Andre Walker Hair Typing System — was only ever meant to be a starting point. If you've ever felt like your hair doesn't neatly fit into a single category, you're not alone. Most people have multiple patterns on their head.

In this guide, we'll break down the full classification system from 1A to 4C, explain why porosity and density matter just as much as curl pattern, and help you build a complete picture of your hair profile — the kind Tressana uses to personalise your care.

The Four Main Types

The classification system groups hair into four broad categories based on the shape of the hair follicle and the resulting strand pattern. Straight hair grows from round follicles, wavy from slightly oval ones, curly from more oval shapes, and coily from the most elliptical follicles.

Why Curl Pattern Isn't Enough

Here's where most hair guides stop. They tell you your type and move on. But two people with 3B curls can have wildly different experiences depending on their porosity, density, and strand thickness.

Porosity

Porosity determines how your hair absorbs and retains moisture. Low porosity hair has tightly sealed cuticles — products tend to sit on top rather than absorb. High porosity hair (often from heat or chemical damage) absorbs moisture quickly but loses it just as fast. This single factor changes everything about which products and techniques work for you.

Density

Density refers to how many individual strands you have per square inch of scalp. You can have fine individual strands but high density (lots of thin hairs = thick-looking hair), or thick strands with low density. This affects how much product you need, which styles work best, and how to layer your routine.

Strand Thickness

Individual strand thickness (fine, medium, coarse) determines how resilient your hair is to manipulation, heat, and chemical treatments. Fine strands are more prone to breakage. Coarse strands can handle more but also take longer to absorb products.

Building Your Complete Profile

At Tressana, we don't just ask your curl pattern. Our hair quiz evaluates your strand pattern, porosity, density, scalp condition, and goals to build a multi-dimensional profile. This is what allows Tressie to give you genuinely personalised recommendations rather than generic advice.

Here's what a complete hair profile looks like:

Type: Your curl pattern (1A through 4C)
Porosity: Low, medium, or high
Density: Low, medium, or high
Strand Thickness: Fine, medium, or coarse
Scalp Condition: Oily, dry, balanced, or sensitive
Elasticity: How well your hair stretches and returns without breaking

When you understand all six dimensions, product choices become logical rather than guesswork. A deep conditioner that works brilliantly for high-porosity 4B hair will weigh down low-porosity 3A curls. A lightweight mousse perfect for 2A waves won't provide enough hold for 3C spirals.

What This Means for Your Routine

Your complete profile dictates three key decisions: how often to wash, what ingredients to prioritise, and which styling techniques to use.

Type 1 and 2 hair generally needs more frequent washing to prevent oil buildup. Type 3 and 4 hair benefits from less frequent washing with co-washing in between. High porosity hair needs heavier sealants like shea butter and oils. Low porosity hair responds better to lightweight, water-based products applied with heat to open the cuticle.

The bottom line: your hair type is a starting point, not a destination. The more you understand about your complete profile, the better your care decisions become.